As a lash technician, knowing the various eyelash extension styles and matching them with different eye shapes is crucial to helping your clients achieve their dream fluttery look. Every client is unique, so your ability to recommend the perfect lash extension style will boost their salon experience and your reputation!
In this ultimate cheat sheet, we break down the types of eyelash extensions based on different lash curl patterns, lengths, thicknesses, and how they complement various eye shapes.
Types Of Lash Extension Materials
Almost all eyelash extensions are made from synthetic materials rather than real fur. Extensions typically consist of one of three types of materials:
- Synthetic lashes: These are made of polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), giving them a satin-like and slightly stiff feel.
- Faux Silk consists of a plastic fibre that resembles silk. It's lightweight and suitable for clients with weak or fine lashes.
- Faux mink: This fibre is meant to mimic real mink fur. It has a beautiful matte finish and is soft to the touch.
Understanding the Basics of Eyelash Extension Styles
Before getting into specific lash extension styles, let’s recap the basic anatomy of eyelash extensions. Extensions vary in:
- Length: Extensions range from 6mm to 18mm in length. Shorter lashes create a more natural look, while longer lashes deliver a bold, dramatic effect.
- Curl: Lash extensions come in various degrees of curliness, such as J, B, C, D, and L. The D curl is the curliest, providing dramatic lift and volume.
- Thickness: Lash extensions can range from ultra-fine at 0.03mm to 0.25 at their thickest. Lash techs will use thinner extensions for volume sets and thicker ones more rarely for clients wanting a bold, dramatic look. Medium-thickness lashes are perfect for classic extensions.
With these basics in mind, let’s consider the different types of lash extensions you can offer your clients.
Classic Lash Extensions
The classic lash style is the most natural-looking option. In this style, you’ll apply extensions in a 1:1 ratio, meaning a single extension is applied to each natural lash. This is perfect for clients who want to enhance their natural lashes without going over the top. Although they add length and depth to the lash line, they maintain a minimal-makeup appearance.
Volume Lashes
For volume lashes, use thinner extensions to create “fans” that are applied to each natural lash. They add 2-6 extensions to every natural lash. This method adds fullness and volume, giving it a bold, feathery appearance. They are thicker and fuller than other lashes and are designed to look more natural.
Volume lashes will suit clients who like a more natural look, prefer not to spend too much time applying makeup, have mascara aversions or allergies, or love to make a statement with their appearance.
Hybrid Lash Extensions
A mix of classic and volume techniques, hybrid lash extensions combine the best of both styles. By mixing individual classic lashes with volume fans, this style creates a textured, fuller look without going overboard on either length or volume.
Hybrid lash extensions are ideal for clients with damaged or sparse lashes who want a little less fullness than a full volume set. They are easy to customise, so you can add volume where necessary and create a tailored look unique to your client.
Clients who want dramatic yet natural-looking lashes will love this blended trend.
Mega Volume Lash Extensions
Va-va-voom! This lash extension style takes volume lash extensions to the next level. You’ll use ultra-fine lashes and apply up to 16 lashes per natural lash. This style is perfect for clients who love drama, as it creates a dense, fluffy, and dark lash line.
Glam and a little OTT, mega volume lashes are best suited to clients who want to make a bold statement and aren't afraid to go all out with their lashes.
Natural Eye
Natural eye extensions do what it says on the tin. They imitate the look of a client’s natural lashes, with similar length patterns and the addition of a few extensions of different lengths in between. This gives lashes the appearance of being in various phases of the eyelash growth cycle.
When done well, it can be hard to see that any extensions have been added as they subtly enhance what nature intended!
Cat Eye Lash Extensions
Purrr-fectly pretty and extremely popular, cat-eye lash extension is one of the most sought-after styles among clients. It is designed to create a feline look that lifts their eyes and enhances their natural shape. To achieve this look, you’ll map out the lashes, placing the longer lash extensions at the outer corners of clients’ eyes, with a gradual tapering towards the inner corners.
This style is perfect for clients who want a sultry, dramatic look and is well-suited to special occasions when they want to appear seductive or confident.
Doll Eye Extensions
Oh, that wide-eyed, innocent look! This type of lash extension creates a playful and charming look for clients wanting a fresh-faced, youthful appearance. To create the doll effect, place longer extensions in the center of the lash line, with shorter ones on the outer corners. This creates a rounded, open-eye effect, making it a great choice for clients who want their eyes to appear bigger and more awake.
Wispy Eyelash Extensions
Wispy eyelash extensions are an example of a hybrid style. They combine volume and classic extensions in different densities and lengths to create a feathery, fluttery effect. These extensions add volume, density, and depth to the lashes.
Wispy lashes suit all eye shapes because you can combine them with any lash extension style to create the client’s desired look.
Open Eye Lash Extensions
For an open-eye style, you need to apply more volume and length in the center of the lid to draw attention to the middle of the eye to make it look more open. Older clients often prefer this style as it adds a youthful feel to the face.
Fox Eye Extensions
One of the hottest trends in eyelash extension styles is fox eyelashes. You’ll apply slightly longer lashes to the outer corners of the eye to create a flirtatious, sexy appearance and can make the eyes seem more wide-set. The L curl is ideal for this style, as it lifts and opens the eyes for that slinky, sassy look.
Choosing the Right Lash Extension Styles for Different Eye Shapes
As a lash artist, you must understand the different types of lash extensions to create the desired look for your clients. However, it’s equally important to recognise which styles work best with various eye shapes. This knowledge will help you recommend styles that flatter your client’s natural features.
- Almond eyes: Almond-shaped eyes are twice as long as they are wide, and most lash extension styles suit them. Deciding on a style is a simple matter of the client’s choice.
- Round eyes: With their circular shape, they look more open than other shapes, so the cat eye style would suit them well as it elongates the eye.
- Close-set eyes: Cat eyes with longer extensions all along the lids will make the eyes look larger. Extra volume and length at the outer corners will draw the gaze and make a client’s eyes look further apart.
- Hooded eyes/monolids: Monolids have no creases, while hooded eyes have creases hidden by the excess skin below the brow bone. Cat or open eye styles suit these hooded shapes as they lift and define the eyes.
- Wide-set eyes: Doll eyes will suit this eye shape. With longer lashes in the center of the eyes and tapering toward both corners, this style focuses on the middle of the eyes to balance the features.
- Deep-set eyes: Doll eye extensions work well if the client has round eyes. Alternatively, apply an open eye style.
- Upturned eyes: Cat eyes are perfect for upturned eyes because they already have that natural shape.
- Downturned eyes: Open eye or doll eye styles focus attention on the iris and brighten clients' eyes.
Other Considerations When Choosing Lash Extension Styles
Choosing the right lash extension styles involves more than considering eye shapes. Consider the following factors when helping a client make the best choice of extension styles:
- A client’s lash extension style should echo their fashion and makeup style and make them feel confident and comfortable.
- Certain styles are more suitable for formal occasions like weddings and parties, while others are perfect for everyday wear.
- Make your clients aware of the degree of maintenance they must commit to for each extension style.
- Some people may prefer lightweight, natural-feeling lash extensions and may not cope as well with heavy, dramatic styles. Consider their comfort levels to decide what works best.
The Long and the Short of Eyelash Extension Styles
When it comes to eyelash extension styles, there’s no one-size-fits-all solution. Each client is unique, with different eye shapes, personalities, and preferences.
Understanding the various types of eyelash extensions and how they complement various eye shapes will equip you to advise your clients and help them achieve their desired look. Whether they want natural enhancement or full-on glamour, there's a lash extension style for every client!
Check out our other blogs to learn more about different styles by eye shape and other important lash tech topics, and then invest in everything you need from BELO in our online store! We’ve got you!