The Korean Lash Lift is one of the most viral lash trends to come out of Korea’s world-famous beauty industry. Unlike a traditional lash lift, the Korean lash lift follows a slightly different method that leaves the lashes looking beautifully and effortlessly lifted. But, have you ever had that heart sinking moment when a client opens their eyes, and the lift just isn’t lifting? We’ve all been there. This can be caused by a variety of factors, so let’s discuss troubleshooting and how to fix common Korean lash lift mistakes; as with any beauty treatment, there’s always a risk when it’s not done correctly.
Korean Lash Lift Gone Wrong: The Risks
A Korean Lash Lift gone wrong can lead to:
- Overprocessed lashes: where the natural lashes become brittle, frizzy, or even snap off.
- Uneven curl patterns: some lashes may point upwards while others droop, creating a messy look.
- No lift at all
Most often, these issues happen when the treatment is rushed, the wrong solution strength is used, or the lash lift is done without knowing all the finer details. Here’s what you should consider.
Was Enough Lash Lift Solution Applied?
When doing a Korean Lash Lift, it’s important to apply a generous amount of solution during Step 1 and Step 2. Using too little product will prevent the disulphide bonds in the natural lashes from breaking down properly, meaning the lashes won’t lift or reshape effectively. Always ensure full coverage to guarantee a long-lasting and even lift.
Was The Solution Applied Evenly?
Unlike a traditional lash lift, the Korean Lash Lift technique allows you to coat the entire lash from root to tip. For best results, apply a thin, even layer of solution across both eyes. Uneven application can cause inconsistent results; some lashes may lift as expected, while others remain straight and limp. Precision is key to achieving a smooth, uniform curl.
Did You Use The Correct Shield Size?
Choosing the right lash lift shield size is one of the most important factors for a successful Korean Lash Lift.
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If the shield is too small, lashes can become over-curled, uncomfortable for the client, and even risk curling back into the eye.
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If the shield is too large, the results will look flat and underwhelming.
Because the Korean technique lifts the entire lash (not just the tip, like in traditional lash lifts), you may need to size up compared to your usual shield choice. For example, if you normally use a size small for a client’s traditional lash lift, you may achieve better results with a size medium when performing a Korean Lash Lift.
Top Tip: Always test different shield sizes before beginning. Hold the shield against the client’s eye and gently lift the lashes upward. The perfect fit is when the natural lashes sit between halfway and three-quarters of the way up the shield - we love our Pink Glueless Lash Lift Shields for this method.
Were The Lashes Fully Processed During Step 1?
The processing time during Step 1 of a Korean Lash Lift is super important. This step softens the natural lashes by breaking down the disulphide bonds, making them flexible enough to reshape. If the product is removed too soon, the bonds remain rigid, resulting in a weak lift that can drop within days.
While manufacturers provide general timing guidelines, always use your professional judgment.
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Thick or coarse lashes usually require longer processing.
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Fine or fragile lashes often need less time.
Leaving Step 1 on for the correct duration will guarantee that the lashes are fully prepped for setting into their new lift.
Did You Use a Balm Or Powder With Step 1?
Some lash techs use a lifting balm or powder alongside Step 1 solution to enhance results. If you choose this method, adjust your timings carefully. These additional products create a barrier, meaning the solution will take longer to penetrate the lashes. Always account for this extra time to avoid under-processing.
Final Thoughts
The Korean Lash Lift is a game-changer treatment for lash artists, offering clients a natural yet impactful curl. But when performed incorrectly, it can leave natural lashes damaged, brittle, or sparse. To avoid the nightmare of a Korean Lash Lift gone wrong, it’s essential to master correct timings, choose the right shields for each eye shape, and use high-quality products every time like our Korean Lash Lift Kit, made up of our Worlds Above solution.