Even the most professional, experienced lash techs occasionally run into issues. So, if you’ve done a lash lift that went awry, take comfort in the fact that you’re not alone! You can also take comfort in knowing you can fix your mistakes.
So, next time your lift looks like it’s about to plummet, keep calm and follow our easy guide on how to fix a lash lift gone wrong!
Common Lash Lift Problems and How to Fix Them
Lash lifts use chemical solutions to “perm” the lashes, and like a real perm, the best solution for a lash lift gone wrong is time. But if your client doesn’t have the luxury of time or you don’t want them leaving your salon unhappy, you can try the following solutions:
Over-processed Lashes
Over-processing happens due to the strength of the perming agent, thioglycolic acid (TA). It’s designed to quickly break down the structure of the lashes to allow restructuring in the form of a lift.
Once the TA is on, you apply the neutralising agent to lower the pH and lift the hair into its new position. Rapidly raising and lowering the pH can weaken the hair and cause frizziness.
Over-processing usually results from leaving the perming solution on too long, which can cause lashes to become brittle, frizzy, or straightened.
Solution
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Quick fix: To fix a lash lift that has gone wrong due to over-processing, reapply the perming solution. Straighten the lashes with a lash wand or spoolie and leave for five minutes. Next, apply the setting solution for a single minute only; voila, your lashes will have a lighter curl.
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Reverse the curl completely: A hot shower or warm compresses are the best ways to remove the lash adhesive. Then, use an eyelash curler to apply a liberal dash of castor oil to the lashes. This will cause a gradual return to their normal state.
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A Keratin lash lift: This type of lifting solution contains the amino acid cysteine, which will give the client the desired result. Heat activates the cysteine, gently opening the hair scales without damaging them. Removing the heat halts the processing. Then, it’s time for the keratin infusion, which restores strength and hydration to the lashes.
Uneven Curls
If the curl on your lift is uneven, it can alter the shape of the eye and may lead to a droopy or unsymmetrical look.
There are a few possible reasons for uneven curls:
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Some lashes may not have properly adhered to the rod or shield.
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Sometimes, a client may have some hairs that curl better than others.
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Using insufficient product
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Placing the lifting pad below the lash line causes lashes to only curl at the tips.
Solution
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Redo the lash lift on the hairs that didn’t curl: Don’t change the size of the shield. Repeat the lash lift procedure on the unaffected lashes.
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Leave the solution on for 3 minutes: Remember, the lashes have already had treatment – they’re just having a boost, so don’t leave the solution on for the usual amount of time.
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Work with precision: Only the partially curled or unaffected hairs need new treatment.
Frizzy or Damaged Lashes
Frizzy or damaged lashes are not a pretty sight. They look like they got too close to a flame and can make the eyes look smaller.
Frizz or damage can occur for a few reasons:
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The solution was left on for too long.
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Too much solution was used during the lash lift.
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You may have applied the solution to the entire eyelash.
Solution
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Time is the best healer: Allow the lashes to regrow through their next cycle.
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Condition the lashes: Advise clients to use a nourishing oil, such as castor or coconut oil, on their lashes once or twice a day during healing.
Preventing Lash Lift Disasters
Yes, we all make faux pas sometimes, but we don’t want our clients to be the victims of our mistakes. So, as the old saying goes, prevention is better than cure.
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Only use high-quality products and the correct tools. Our Worlds Above Lash Lift and Brow Lamination Kit will give excellent results.
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Familiarise yourself with different lash types.
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Be pedantic with timing and applying the right amount of product. Set a timer, just in case!
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Before performing a lash lift, thoroughly consult with the client to assess their lash length and discuss their expectations and possible allergies.
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Take your time during the lash adhesion process. A perfectly positioned lash rod and evenly adhered lashes are the foundation of a flawless lift.
Aftercare to Maintain Lash Health
The best way to handle a lash lift gone wrong is to prevent it from happening in the first place, and proper aftercare plays a huge role in this regard.
Share these aftercare tips with your clients to keep their lashes looking healthy and gorgeous.
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Avoid water and steam for 24 – 48 hours. This means no steamy baths or showers and no sweat!
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No mascara or lash products for a day or two.
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Brush lashes gently using a clean spoolie to maintain their shape and avoid tangling.
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Try not to sleep on your stomach or side to avoid crushing the newly lifted lashes.
When to Seek Professional Help
In severe cases, like chemical burns or allergic reactions, professional intervention may be necessary. If the lash lift has really gone awry and it’s not a simple fix, or you’re concerned about a client’s excessive discomfort, swelling, redness, or eye irritation, encourage them to seek help from a dermatologist or ophthalmologist.
Building Client Trust Post-Lash Lift Mishap
Mistakes are part of any service-based business, but how you handle them can set you apart as a professional.
If your lash lift has gone noticeably wrong and you haven't been able to fix it, be transparent, offer solutions, and tell your clients how you will prevent similar problems in the future.
Apologise profusely, take responsibility for the lash lift gone wrong, and offer the client a refund and a free fix-up. Generally, clients will respect that you’ve owned up to your mistakes and are willing to fix them!
Keep Your Lashes and Your Spirits Lifted
A lash lift gone wrong doesn’t have to be the end of the world—or your client's faith in you! It is fixable, and the worst-case scenario is that your client lives with the issue until the lift fades and new lashes grow.
However, with our easy solutions, preventive measures, and aftercare tips, you can confidently tackle any tricky situation and make sure your client leaves the salon gorgeous and happy!