When a lash lift goes wrong, it's bad news for everyone. You're dealing with unhappy clients, your own frustration, time in your schedule being eaten up with re-dos, and knock on your own confidence in your skill.
Even the most professional, experienced lash techs occasionally run into issues with lash lifts, so take comfort in the fact that you’re not the only one.
Knowing you can fix your lash lift errors is the difference between your client leaving happy, or leaving a negative review!
Next time your lift looks like it’s about to plummet (and chances are, there will be a next time - we're only human!), keep calm and follow our easy guide on how to fix a lash lift gone wrong.
Common Lash Lift Problems and How to Fix Them
Lash lifts use chemical solutions to “perm” the lashes, and like a perm on hair, the best solution for a lash lift gone wrong is time. If your client doesn’t have the luxury of time or you don’t want them leaving your salon unhappy, you can try the following solutions:
Over-processed Lashes
Over-processing happens due to the strength of the perming agent, thioglycolic acid (TA). It’s designed to quickly break down the structure of the lashes to allow restructuring in the form of a lift.
Over-processing usually results from leaving the perming solution on too long, which can cause lashes to become brittle, frizzy, or straightened.
Solution
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Quick fix: To fix a lash lift that has gone wrong due to over-processing, reapply the perming solution. Straighten the lashes with a lash wand or spoolie and leave for five minutes. Next, apply the setting solution for a single minute only; voila, your lashes will have a lighter curl.
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Reverse the curl completely: A hot shower or warm compresses are the best ways to remove the lifting solution. Then, apply a liberal dash of castor oil to the lashes using an applicator. This will cause a gradual return to their normal state.
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Try a Korean Lash Lift instead: Korean Lash Lifts use a cysteamine-based lifting solution, which is gentler on the lashes while still giving the lift you're looking for. Rather than the harsh TA lifting solution, a cysteamine-based solution protects your client's natural lashes while still delivering 10/10 results.
Try BELO's Korean Lash Lift Sample Kit and see the difference for yourself:
Uneven Curls
There's nothing more annoying than removing the lash shield and finding your client's lashes have lifted unevenly. It can make an otherwise perfect lash lift go from drop-dead gorgeous to droopy.
Uneven lash curls create the illusion of a different eye shape, which can be made more apparent if your client has downturned eyes. Best case: your clients lashes unsymmetrical. Worst case: well, it's not cute.
There are a few possible reasons for uneven curls in a lash lift:
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Some lashes may not have properly adhered to the lash shield. This is most common in the outer edge of the lash line as the shield can lift from the eyelid if it's not properly secured.
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If it's not your client's first lash lift, some lashes can curl better than others as they may have been processed previously.
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Not using enough product to fully cover the lashes. This one is so frustrating as you often have to go back in, using more product than you initially skimped on!
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Placing the lash shield below the lash line, causing lashes to only curl at the tips.
Solution
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Redo the lash lift on the hairs that didn’t curl: Don’t change the size of the shield, just repeat the lash lift step 1 & 2 on the unaffected lashes.
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Leave the solution on for 3 minutes: Remember, the lashes have already had treatment, they’re just having a boost, so don’t leave the solution on for the usual amount of time.
- Remove the solution: and nourish with step 3 as normal.
Alternatively: try a lash lift glue balm to ensure the lashes adhere to the shield properly, avoiding the risk of uneven curls:
BELO Lash Worlds Above Glue Balm, £14.99
Frizzy or Damaged Lashes
Frizzy or damaged lashes are not a pretty sight, and can even make the eyes look smaller (not what you or your clients want!). This is pretty much the worst thing that can happen in a lash lit (without there being a complete disaster) because there's little you can do to rectify the situation.
Frizz or damage to the lashes from a lash lift can occur for a few reasons:
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The solution was left on for too long: setting a timer is so crucial when you're applying lash lift solution, but it's not fool-proof. Always use your professional judgement to call it if your client's lashes are lifting quickly.
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Too much solution was used during the lash lift: the opposite problem of what we discussed earlier! You don't want too little product, but too much isn't good.
Solution
- Condition the lashes: Advise clients to use a nourishing oil, such as castor or coconut oil, on their lashes once or twice a day during healing.
- Time is the best healer: This is the worst case scenario. You can always advise that your client allows their lashes to regrow through their next cycle, but you run the risk of losing a client if you don't provide a solution then-and-there.
If you're consistently giving your clients frizzy or damaged lashes, it's time have a look at your technique. Check out BELO's online masterclass for Korean Lash Lifts:
Korean-Inspired Lash Lift Online Masterclass, £44.99
Preventing Lash Lift Disasters
Yes, we all make faux pas sometimes, but we don’t want our clients to be the victims of our mistakes. So, as the old saying goes, prevention is better than cure.
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Only use high-quality products and the correct tools: Our Worlds Above Lash Lift and Brow Lamination Kit will give excellent results.
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Familiarise yourself with different lash types: every client will have a different lash type, and each lash type will require a different shield, timing and amount of solution.
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Be pedantic with timing and applying the right amount of product: Set a timer and use your professional judgement.
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Before performing a lash lift, thoroughly consult with your client: assess their lash length, curl & stubbornness and discuss their expectations and possible allergies.
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Take your time during the lash adhesion process: a perfectly positioned lash shield and evenly adhered lashes are the foundation of a flawless lift.
Aftercare to Maintain Lash Health
The best way to handle a lash lift gone wrong is to prevent it from happening in the first place, and proper aftercare plays a huge role in this regard.
Share these aftercare tips with your clients to keep their lashes looking healthy and gorgeous.
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Avoid water and steam for 24 – 48 hours: this means no steamy baths or showers and no sweat!
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No mascara or lash products: ensure your clients avoid mascara for a day or two (not like they'd need it!)
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Brush lashes gently using a clean spoolie: train your clients to maintain their lash shape and avoid tangling.
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Try not to sleep on your stomach or side: avoid crushing the newly lifted lashes.
When to Seek Professional Help
In severe cases, like chemical burns or allergic reactions, professional intervention may be necessary. If the lash lift has really gone awry and it’s not a simple fix, or you’re concerned about a client’s excessive discomfort, swelling, redness, or eye irritation, encourage them to seek help from a dermatologist or ophthalmologist.
Building Client Trust Post-Lash Lift Mishap
Mistakes are part of any service-based business, but how you handle them can set you apart as a professional.
If your lash lift has gone noticeably wrong and you haven't been able to fix it, be transparent, offer solutions, and tell your clients how you will prevent similar problems in the future.
Apologise profusely, take responsibility for the lash lift gone wrong, and offer the client a refund and a free fix-up. Generally, clients will respect that you’ve owned up to your mistakes and are willing to fix them!
Keep Your Lashes and Your Spirits Lifted
A lash lift gone wrong doesn’t have to be the end of the world, or your client's faith in you! It is fixable, and the worst-case scenario is that your client lives with the issue until the lift fades and new lashes grow.
However, with our easy solutions, preventive measures, and aftercare tips, you can confidently tackle any tricky situation and make sure your client leaves the salon gorgeous and happy!
