Eyelash extensions give everyone the opportunity to flutter fuller, more dramatic lashes, even if they weren’t born with them! But just as no two sets of natural lashes are the same, there’s no one-size-fits-all set of extensions. Eyelash extensions don’t just come in different curls; they come in different thicknesses, too.
For lash techs, a crucial part of creating the perfect set of lash extensions is choosing the appropriate thickness (or diameter). This can affect their overall look, longevity, and, most importantly, the health of natural lashes.
Let’s get to the thick (and thin) of it!
Understanding Lash Extension Diameters
Eyelash extension diameters range from 0.03mm to 0.25mm, and it’s important to choose the right thickness for each client. When considering the thickness, keep the desired lash style in mind, but also take note of the condition of the client’s natural lashes.
Here’s a breakdown of the most commonly used diameters and their ideal applications:
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0.03mm: These are the lightest lashes available and should be used for mega volume sets to ensure no damage is caused to the natural lashes. 0.03mm are perfect to create fluffy lashes, you can use multiple extensions on a single natural lash.
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0.05mm: Although 0.05mm is slightly thicker than 0.03, they can still be used in volume sets and are perfect to use if you are new to volume lashing. 0.05 are still very light on the natural lashes.
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0.07mm: This thickness is perfect for regular volume sets, as well as wet look lashes and angel lashes. Lash techs can use 2-6 extensions per fan, depending on the condition of the client's natural lashes. These are a client favourite because they can create a natural look without being too dramatic.
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0.12mm: This is for clients who want a wispy feel and look or for a classic application on thinner lashes.
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0.15mm: These are the perfect thickness for classic sets and are by far the most popular. You can also use them for all types of eyelash extension curls, from gentle B curls to bold L curls.
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0.18mm—0.20mm: These lashes suit a bolder classic lash application. They are fairly heavy, so only use them on clients with strong lashes. However, for clients with weaker natural lashes, consider using cashmere flat lashes instead. These are much lighter than traditional classic lashes and will not cause damage to the client's natural lashes. Still, most lash techs will apply heavier lashes sparingly to avoid causing strain.
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0.25mm: Although glamorous and dramatic, these are seldom recommended. They can be too heavy for most natural lashes, leading to premature shedding or damage.
Why Lash Extension Thickness Matters
Choosing the correct diameter isn’t just about aesthetics – it’s about ensuring the long-term health of your client’s natural lashes.
Aesthetic Impact
Thicker diameters offer a bolder, more dramatic look, while thinner extensions create a softer, fluffier effect. Matching the diameter to the client’s desired style and natural lash capacity is essential for achieving their desired look.
Longevity
When extensions are too heavy or thick, they can cause natural lashes to shed prematurely. On the other hand, lightweight extensions adhere better and last longer because they don't strain the natural lashes.
Natural Lash Health
The most important consideration is the health of your client’s natural lashes. Applying extensions that are too thick can lead to breakage, follicle damage, and permanent lash loss. Always assess the strength of a client’s lashes and choose a thickness that won’t compromise their health.
Practical Tips for Lash Artists
Here are some practical tips for making the best decisions about lash diameters:
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Assess Natural Lash Strength: Before applying extensions, examine the client’s natural lashes. Are they thick and robust or fine and delicate? Thicker lashes can support heavier extensions, while finer lashes need thinner ones.
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Consider the Client’s Desired Look: Discuss your client’s expectations. Do they want a natural enhancement, a bold curl, or a dramatic full-volume effect? For a bold effect on clients with weaker lashes, use finer diameters in larger volume fans rather than thick extensions.
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Mix Diameters for Dimension: Combining different diameters can add depth and a more natural look. For example, using 0.10mm extensions in the inside corners and 0.15mm in the centre can create a balanced, wide-eyed look.
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Educate Your Clients: Explain the importance of using the correct thickness to maintain natural lash health. Educated clients will trust your wisdom and follow your recommendations.
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Practice Safe Application: Ensure each extension is properly isolated and bonded. Poor application can increase the risk of damage, regardless of the diameter used.
The Risk of Going Too Thick
Applying extensions that are too thick for a client’s lashes can have unpleasant consequences, including:
Premature Shedding: Excess weight can cause natural lashes to fall out before their natural growth cycle ends.
Follicle Damage: Overburdened follicles may become damaged, leading to sparse or no regrowth.
Discomfort: Heavy extensions can cause discomfort, especially if improperly applied.
Prioritising the health of the client’s natural lashes enhances your reputation as a skilled, responsible artist.
Master Lash Diameters for Lasting Client Trust
When you understand the significance of lash diameters, you can easily create lash extensions that enhance your client’s natural beauty without compromising their lash integrity.
Always assess, communicate, and prioritise your client’s natural lash health. They will appreciate your wisdom and will keep coming back for you to work your magic!