Each and every one of your clients has a beautifully unique eye shape. Lash extensions are by no means a one-size-fits-all, and a good lash tech should be able to curate each unique set of lashes according to the client’s eye shape and preferences. Whether they have deep-set eyes or round eyes, upturned eyes or hooded eyes, it’s important to take into account the shape of your client’s eyes to ensure that you create a lash look that truly compliments them.
Once you’ve identified the eye shape that you are working with, that’s when the real work starts! Lash artists need to use different lengths, curls and thicknesses of lash extensions depending on their client’s eye shape and then use lash mapping to create the desired eyelash extension look and effect.
To help all of our BELO babes be the best they can be, we’ve put together this guide to the golden rules of lashing for 8 of the most common eye shapes.
Different Types of Eyelash Extension Styles
Before we dive into which type of eyelash extensions is best for the different eye shapes, we need to first understand the different core eyelash extension styles and how they can be mapped onto the natural lashes.
Natural Eye: This look does what it says on the tin – these extensions mimic natural lashes and enhances the natural shape. It follows the same length pattern as natural eyelashes (mostly consistent in length), with a few synthetic extensions of varying lengths interspersed along the lash line to create the effect of lashes in different stages of the natural growth cycle. This style is mainly used in classic lash extension applications, where clients just want to enhance their natural lashes.
Open Eye: To achieve this style of lash extensions, more length and volume is added to the centre of the eyelid, drawing the focus to the middle of the eye and making it appear more open. This lash style tends to be popular with older clients who want to make their eyes pop.
Cat Eye: Cat eye lash extensions are a super popular sexy twist on classic volume lash styles. With this eyelash extension style, the goal is to lift and elongate the outer corners of the eyes (just like with winged eyeliner) to create a sultry look. The eyelash extensions will be shortest at the inner corner and increase in length towards the outer corner.
Fox Eye: Fox eyes are the new eye makeup shape on the scene, and everyone is going crazy for it! Think of a Fox Eye as the Cat Eye’s glamorous big sister: fun, sexy and dramatic. With this style, you can play around with different thicknesses and lash curls (especially L curls) as long as you remember to accentuate the outer corner of the eye, bringing the shape of the lashes upward.
Doll Eye: The Doll Eye lash extension style is essentially a combination of the Natural Eye and Open Eye looks. Length is applied right across the lash line, with slightly longer lashes at the centre, resulting in the eyes looking bigger. Doll eye eyelash extensions are the most popular style amongst clients and it suits lots of different types of eye shapes.
In our Masterclass courses, we also offer lash techs the chance to learn our signature advanced lash maps, BELO, BRATZ, BADDIE, BOSSY and BABY.
So… which of these styles of eyelash extensions is right for which eye shape?
Almond eyes are the most common eye shape that eyelash technicians will encounter. Dimensionally, these eyes are half as high as they are wide, resulting in an oval shape. Almond eyes are the most versatile in terms of eyelash styling, so unlike other shapes, the eyelash extension look chosen will be down to the client’s personal preference.
Both Natural and Open Eye styles created with classic eyelash extensions sit well on these eyes. For classic lashes, we prefer to use D curls as this brings enough bounce to the lashes without looking ‘too much’ (if there was such a thing!).
For more dramatic looks using volume lashes, either Doll, Cat or Fox Eye styles will suit almond eyes well. Clients with almond eyes won’t be afraid to experiment as most styles will suit them. For classic takes on each of these styles, C and D curls will work well. For something a bit different, try DD curls for extra bounce or L curls for a sassy angled effect.
Round eyes are more circular than they are oval-shaped, meaning that they naturally appear more open than other eye shapes. For these eyes, eyelash techs should steer clear of styles that open up the eye further – such as Doll or Open Eye – as this can result in your client looking more stunned than stunning!
Instead, aim to elongate the eyes by applying the lash extensions in a Cat Eye style. Using a looser curl such as a C curl (rather than a bouncy D curl) will also help to avoid a surprised expression and create the illusion of an almond eye.
For a more detailed explanation on the differences between lash curls, check our our blog: The Ultimate Eyelash Extension Curl Guide.
hooded / monolid eyes
A monolid eye or hooded eye is an eye shape which has no visible crease in the eye socket and which has a ‘hooded’ eyelid that extends right up to the lash line. As the lash base can sometimes even be hidden by the eyelid, finding the right eyelash curl can be difficult.
Strong curls, such as a D and DD curls, will often not leave enough space between the extension and skin of the eyelid and can potentially cause discomfort for your clients.
C curls or angled curls L curls will be the best option for hooded eyes. When it comes to monolid eyes, Cat Eye or Open Eye styles can help to add lift and definition depending on the individual client.
Upturned eyes are characterised by the outer corner of the eye being higher than the inner corner. Because this causes a natural cat eye effect, styling eyelash extensions for upturned eyes is quite straightforward; Cat Eye all the way!
These eyelash extensions will accentuate the natural shape of the eye, so you can have fun by focusing on the extensions themselves. Think hybrid lashes for a wispy look and Russian lashes for big volume and ultimate drama. Have fun using a mixture of lashes and premade spikes in a D curl to give your clients a spikey, sexy look.
Downturned eyes are the opposite of upturned; the outer corner of the eye is lower than the inner corner. For downturned eyes, we recommend placing curlier eyelashes at the outer corner. C curls and D curls used like this will help to achieve a lifting effect and balance out the downward curve of the eye shape.
While a subtle Cat Eye can work on some clients, generally speaking this eyelash extension style emphasises downturned eyes and can make them appear heavy. Try a Doll or Open Eye lash map to draw the attention to the iris and brighten the eyes.
Although technically more of an eye position than an eye shape, close-set eyes still require a carefully considered eyelash extension style. For a pair of eyes to be close-set, the gap between the inner corners should be the equivalent of one eye length or less. When working on close-set eyes, think length, length, length!
Longer eyelash extensions all along the eyelids will increase the overall size of the eyes, while adding extra length and volume at the outer corners in a Cat Eye will draw the focus there and make the eyes appear wider apart. As close-set eyes are more about the position of the eyes themselves, any lash curl of your client’s preference will work to produce this effect.
Wide-set eyes are… you guessed it. Eyes that are spaced apart by more than one eye length from inner corner to inner corner. Go for a Doll Eye eyelash extension style on clients who have these peepers, tapering the eyelash length towards both the inner and outer corners.
Whether your client prefers classic lashes or volume fans, this lash look will pull the focus towards the centre of each eye and balance their features out beautifully.
For our babes with deep-set eyes, looser curls and longer lengths are key. As deep-set eyes sit further into the eye socket, going for long extensions with a strong curl can cause the eyelashes to come into contact with the brow bone, which can be uncomfortable for your client.
By using a lash such as a long C curl, you can help bring the eyes out from under the brow bone and open them up. Use Doll Eye lash mapping if your client has round eyes and Open Eye lash mapping for other eye shapes.
At BELO, we know the importance of getting every every set of lash extensions just right. Take a look through our range of eyelash extensions and make sure you’re prepped and ready to lash each and every eye shape!